Transition days can be a little hectic - you are trying to squeeze in anything you missed in the departure city while simultaneously wondering if you will have time to orient yourself in the new city! Happily, we were able to accomplish both ends. Since our train didn't leave until the early afternoon we were able to head out to the Belgium Comic Strip Museum for a look at how comics are created - from the idea, to the sketches, to the published process. Having been to Belgium a few times before, I had no idea how comics-crazy there are! We have Belgium to thank for Asterix, Tin Tin, and even the Smurfs! (who knew?!). Josh was gifted an English copy of a Tin Tin comic by our innkeeper and he devoured it - we bought 4 or 5 more at the comic book museum. It's really cool that he can make a connection with the city and it's love of the comic. We wandered around more on the "comic book walk" that is supposed to guide you to comic murals that grace the walls of Brussels, whoever, we found that we ran into more of them by accident, than by following the map.
We finally made it to Madame Chapeau for lunch. Jeff and I ordered an aperitif (I could get used to this European tradition) and decided to share and meat and cheese board and a bowl of Cream of Leek soup. Josh also had the soup. As expected, the cheese was delicious, as was also expected, the meats were a bit funky. There was a salami and pate. The last meat was some sort of charcuterie that had paprika in it. I tried some, but was too scared for a whole piece :) The Leek soup was amazing! It was served with house made croutons, little radishes and green onions and shaved parmesan. Josh ate his whole bowl and I wish Jeff and I hadn't shared one. Really the best part was dessert - isn't it always? We shared speculoos ice cream - truly a work of ice cream art. It had crumbled speculoos cookies and caramel sauce as well. Who knew that the Belgians were so good at ice cream! We also had a Belgian waffle with red fruits and whipped cream. So light and delicious. Josh didn't like it as much, because the fruit sauce wasn't that sweet.
After lunch we really only had one more thing to accomplish - we had really neglected our chocolate intake and with a mere hour left, we had to hit as many stores as we could! In the end I think we managed 4 or 5 shops and macarons as well. At this time our new favorite is Mary, alongside our trusted go-to Leonidas :). We had just enough time to get back to the B&B and grab a cab to the train station - we were Amsterdam bound on the fast Thalys train.
The trip is only about an hour and 50 minutes and flies by. Literally. The train reaches speeds of 185 miles per hour! Since we were in 1st class we were also served a drink and a snack - lovely service :)
The first thing you notice about Amsterdam are the bikes. I am not kidding. There isn't a parking structure for cars, but there is one for bikes! There are more bikes than cars in the city and after walking for only a few minutes it is easy to believe. You really have to be on the lookout, because they are everywhere, which is a challenge with the space cadet in our family... A short bus ride brought us to our rental apartment along side a picturesque canal (they are all picturesque actually, at least the ones I've seen) and we got settled in. Of course that was after climbing three sets of exceedingly narrow and steep stairs... We have definitely been rethinking the large bag we brought - it seemed like a good idea at the time.
Since we got in early enough we decided to try our luck to see if we could get into the Anne Frank House. They were doing some trial that day were you could only buy evening tickets online, but tickets were available and they had free wifi, so we got tix and headed out to hit the grocery store before our museum entrance. The grocery store is small as expected, but has everything we need. The only problem is payment. Some store don't take cash and some don't take certain types of credit cards. As the woman started ringing our order she asked if I had Visa because they don't take it. I said no, because we were using Mastercard. What she should have said was American credit cards, because the Mastercard didn't work either! She had to transfer our order to another register so we could pay cash - score one for the the tourists! We had just enough time to run the grocery back up the steep, narrow stairs before returning to the Anne Frank House.
The house tour is memorable. It is very well done and by that I mean not over-done. There are few artifacts and the rooms in the annex are bare. This is by design. Anne Frank's father Otto, who survived, wanted this done purposefully so the visitor could imagine themselves what it might have been like. There are a few personal items of the Frank's and several photographs. The walls of each room have quotes by Anne that really give an insight into what she was thinking. The end of the exhibit has a few short interviews with Otto Frank and Miep Van Pels, who helped the family. Anne's diaries are also on display. The power of simplicity in this case is very elegant. Some museums can assault the senses with too much information and too much multimedia, but that was not the case here.
Finally, we were on our way home after another day of 10 miles of walking. Of course, we were waylaid by the tempting smell of pizza coming from the restaurants along our route home. Recognizing the name of one of them as a place recommended by our rental manager, we brought one home to incorporate into dinner!
It was a full day, spanning two cities, but a fun day nonetheless. I think we are all enamored by the city of Amsterdam, the canals, the people and the buildings. Some of them appear to be defying gravity and physics right before your eyes - leaning this way and that, bowing out at the middle, but still standing! The seems to be a good place to wander without an itinerary and just enjoy what you come across!
Wednesday, June 17, 2015
Monday, June 15, 2015
Antwerp
I was anxious to get a good swim workout in this morning and so we walked about a half mile the local pool. Of course, today they are closed in the morning for some reason. Who knows why. So scratch that idea. We get our stuff together and head out by train to Antwerp, a city none of us have ever been to. The train ride is short -- 50 minutes. Trains run almost every 10-15 minutes which was nice. And no, we didn't need a reservation for these trains!
The train station in Antwerp is stunning. It a 4 or 5 level station with trains leaving on each level. It's gorgeous.
Other than our afternoon plans (more on that to come), we had no real agenda for the day. We set out to explore the city, which is not really anything to write home about. But they had more chocolate and waffle shops than we had seen in previous cities. We had already been stymied multiple times by sub-par waffles but we were not going to give in. So we tried another one in town and it was better but still not what we expected! The search continues..
The main square and church are fairly nice and that's what you see below in the pictures. But that's just about it. Of course, it's still nice walking around any European city for us..
We had a really good lunch with some traditional Flemish dishes -- beef carbonnade and pork stoemp. The stoemp is a mashed vegetable (with potatoes) dish and in this case with pork sausage and thick bacon. This place used a bit of spinach today. (so it's basically mashed potatoes with spinach in them) Very tasty. Karen and I also had to get a Belgian beer before we left the country. It was pretty good -- and was as cheap as Josh's water!
We did even more walking after lunch (it ended up being 8.5 miles total today) before we got to our afternoon reservation at Antwerp Clue. It's a game/mystery place where they stick you in a room with a lot of clues and you have an hour to escape. We hadn't heard much about these kinds of places but I guess they are now very popular and there are even some in San Diego. We got in the kids room. It's a kids play room but all of the kids have disappeared and we need to figure out who took them. In this room, there are a lot of kids toys and boxes with padlocks.. and we need to figure out the combinations to open them all. It was really neat. Josh had high expectations for it (he'd been waiting for it since we booked it last week) and it lived up it! We all had to work as a team to find clues and get out. We finished the game with 5 seconds to go. They gave us several clues along the way if we were stumped. I think that was the highlight of our day -- for all of us.
We walked back to the train station and we tried yet another waffle stand -- this time in the train station. And sure enough, this one was great!
We then headed back to Brussels. Then had a good dinner -- Josh had meatballs (they like their meat here!) and we had another version of Stoemp, this time with beets. Still excllent.
Tonight we will get to bed at a normal time unlike last night when we got back so late. Tomorrow, we will take the fast train to Amsterdam. And yes, this time we have reservations!
I'll leave you with the usual portrait in front of Brussels' little squirt.
The train station in Antwerp is stunning. It a 4 or 5 level station with trains leaving on each level. It's gorgeous.
Antwerp Train Station |
The main square and church are fairly nice and that's what you see below in the pictures. But that's just about it. Of course, it's still nice walking around any European city for us..
Antwerp |
Antwerp |
Antwerp |
Antwerp |
Antwerp |
Rare Shot: Shabels drinking beer |
Antwerp Clue afterwards |
We walked back to the train station and we tried yet another waffle stand -- this time in the train station. And sure enough, this one was great!
Train Station Waffles -- the best so far! |
We then headed back to Brussels. Then had a good dinner -- Josh had meatballs (they like their meat here!) and we had another version of Stoemp, this time with beets. Still excllent.
Tonight we will get to bed at a normal time unlike last night when we got back so late. Tomorrow, we will take the fast train to Amsterdam. And yes, this time we have reservations!
I'll leave you with the usual portrait in front of Brussels' little squirt.
Sunday, June 14, 2015
The Best of Brugge (Bruges)
The whole family woke up feeling refreshed today! Might have been that near 12 hours of sleep we all got - take that jet lag! I am happy to report that I an typing this at 10pm in the evening, so I did not turn into a pumpkin early. Anyway, this morning we met the other boarders at our B&B who included a Chinese student graduating from university and a well-traveled German couple. Thusly fueled with food we headed for the train station to hitch a ride to Brugge. No crazy train saga today, just a nice straight shot, taking about one hour.
Brugge is a beautiful city and one of my favorite aspects is the unique stepped architecture of the roofs. Back in the day, the roofs were very hard and time-consuming to construct, therefore they were an indicator of high status. Brugge was a very wealthy city due to the cloth trade. Like many European cities there is a many square and streets that radiate off of it. There are many other small plazas, the focal points of which are usually a church.
Today, we walked, rode, and cruised. After a brisk walk from the station and a quick frites stop (I think they might get mad if you call them French fries) and a soup and sandwich lunch; we started the ascent of the Burg Tower or Belfort. The Belfort was built in the 11th century and housed the city treasury as well as the market hall for the cloth merchants. Today is still houses 47 bells, which you can visit via 366 narrow, spiral stairs. At least there is a central rope to hold onto since up and down traffic use the same steps :) The view from the top is worth the trek - panoramic and sprawling. I really love all the red roofs and the view of the surrounding countryside. The bells are cool and I might add, loud, if you happen to be up there when they start playing.
OK, walking. Check! To rest our legs we decided on a short canal cruise. The cruises are about 30 minutes long and whiled the canals are not as grand as Venice, they are still scenic. It's a fantastic way to see the architecture of the city. We even learned that there are 43 bridges in Brugge (I think the first one was built in the 1400s) and that you could go all the way to the Netherlands along the same canal!
Now that our legs were ready to go again we stuck out on bikes for the nearby village of Damme. Belgium has a great bike culture and has extensive bike routes. This one led us along a canal for a distance of just over 4 miles to Damme. The ride provided views of farms and fields as we rode under stately trees. Near Damme we stopped at a working windmill and got to have a look inside. This mill was processing grain when we visited. It takes less than 10 minutes to walk around the city, but we managed to see two Teslas in that time period! They were having a big festival while we were there to celebrate the eating of the first small fishes of the season. Of course, they were eating those fish :) Back in the day, Damme made its money in the Herring industry, before its harbor silted in.
All of this exercising was hard work, so we had to hit some chocolate shops on our way to dinner - we are in Belgium after all... Dinner was at a restaurant that specialized in grilled meats, the boys went for steak, while I tried out the seafood. The meal was good and equally impressive was the baked potato that Josh had that had a serving of garlic butter that was as big as a silver dollar!
When we got back into Brussels, we had to stop for a waffle, since our first one was disappointing. Unfortunately, so was this one so we are still on the hunt for an awesome waffle - maybe tomorrow! Oh, and on our way back to the B&B we checked in on the Manneken Pis today donned a guitar and hard rock t-shirt, to celebrate the founding of the restaurant in 1971. Wonder what he will be wearing in the morning....
Brugge is a beautiful city and one of my favorite aspects is the unique stepped architecture of the roofs. Back in the day, the roofs were very hard and time-consuming to construct, therefore they were an indicator of high status. Brugge was a very wealthy city due to the cloth trade. Like many European cities there is a many square and streets that radiate off of it. There are many other small plazas, the focal points of which are usually a church.
Today, we walked, rode, and cruised. After a brisk walk from the station and a quick frites stop (I think they might get mad if you call them French fries) and a soup and sandwich lunch; we started the ascent of the Burg Tower or Belfort. The Belfort was built in the 11th century and housed the city treasury as well as the market hall for the cloth merchants. Today is still houses 47 bells, which you can visit via 366 narrow, spiral stairs. At least there is a central rope to hold onto since up and down traffic use the same steps :) The view from the top is worth the trek - panoramic and sprawling. I really love all the red roofs and the view of the surrounding countryside. The bells are cool and I might add, loud, if you happen to be up there when they start playing.
OK, walking. Check! To rest our legs we decided on a short canal cruise. The cruises are about 30 minutes long and whiled the canals are not as grand as Venice, they are still scenic. It's a fantastic way to see the architecture of the city. We even learned that there are 43 bridges in Brugge (I think the first one was built in the 1400s) and that you could go all the way to the Netherlands along the same canal!
Now that our legs were ready to go again we stuck out on bikes for the nearby village of Damme. Belgium has a great bike culture and has extensive bike routes. This one led us along a canal for a distance of just over 4 miles to Damme. The ride provided views of farms and fields as we rode under stately trees. Near Damme we stopped at a working windmill and got to have a look inside. This mill was processing grain when we visited. It takes less than 10 minutes to walk around the city, but we managed to see two Teslas in that time period! They were having a big festival while we were there to celebrate the eating of the first small fishes of the season. Of course, they were eating those fish :) Back in the day, Damme made its money in the Herring industry, before its harbor silted in.
All of this exercising was hard work, so we had to hit some chocolate shops on our way to dinner - we are in Belgium after all... Dinner was at a restaurant that specialized in grilled meats, the boys went for steak, while I tried out the seafood. The meal was good and equally impressive was the baked potato that Josh had that had a serving of garlic butter that was as big as a silver dollar!
When we got back into Brussels, we had to stop for a waffle, since our first one was disappointing. Unfortunately, so was this one so we are still on the hunt for an awesome waffle - maybe tomorrow! Oh, and on our way back to the B&B we checked in on the Manneken Pis today donned a guitar and hard rock t-shirt, to celebrate the founding of the restaurant in 1971. Wonder what he will be wearing in the morning....
Saturday, June 13, 2015
Travel and Arrival to Europe
After planes, trains, automobiles and buses, we finally arrived safely at our Brussels B&B. We drove to LAX from Karen's Mom's place in Orange County and flew KLM straight to Amsterdam nonstop. We paid a little extra to get the equivalent of "ecomomy plus" and it was well worth it. More legroom and the seats reclined a lot more. The flight was about 9.5 hours long and it went smoothly and we left and arrived on time. We all got varying amounts of rest/sleep during the flight. We left at 1:45pm and landed at 9am Amsterdam time -- which felt like midnight our time. Josh didn't feel tired until about 2-3 hours prior to landing so he likely had the least amount of rest. The Amsterdam Airport reminds me of Frankfurt in that it is old, completely torn apart and under construction. At least Amsterdam is only a fraction of the size of Frankfurt. We got our luggage and headed out to (try to) catch the fast train to Brussels where we would be spending the first 3 nights of the trip.
I'm not sure why I expected anything less, but of course there was an issue with the train when we got there. Apparently, that faster train to Brussels almost always sells out at least a day ahead of time. Not to mention Saturday mornings. And I didn't think to reserve it ahead of time. So we could either wait 6 hours to catch the next faster/nicer train (arriving at 6pm) or we could take the slower (insert your favorite adjective here that rhymes with pity) route and get there at 1:30pm. Notice I didn't use the word "train" there. That's because the journey was not just by train. We were told that we needed to take a 1 hour train to a previously unheard-of town named Breda (Is that Brenda without the N?) and because it was our lucky weekend, they were doing construction on the tracks. So that meant we had to get off the train and catch a bus to the next station. Then continue for 20 minutes to Antwerp on another train. Then connect to yet another 50 minute train into Brussels. For a grand total of 3.5 hours of train+bus rides -- all with our large bags. Hey, it wouldn't be Europe without a train adventure to start things off. Not only that, but because Josh was tired, he didn't realize he needed to take one of the bags off one of the trains and left it on the previous train! Which we didn't realize until about 5 minutes later -- but thankfully we ran back to the earlier train and it was still there where we left it! Oh boy. Minor panic attack there. But in the end, we made it to Brussels and walked the final 10-15 minutes to our B&B. The weather was party cloudy when we arrived (and in the upper 60s) but it cleared up later into the lower 70s later.
The B&B is fantastic. It's fairly cheap (120 Euros/night) and the room is very large as well as the bathroom. It has a second bed for Josh and is a 3 minute walk to the main central square of town in Brussels. The owner is nice and told us what to go do and where to eat. (obviously the main concern of ours)
We head out to finally get lunch (since we didn't get any chance to eat during our 3.5 hour train/bus adventure during the 10am-1:30pm timeframe) at 2:30pm. So for those of you who have traveled to Europe, what is the next problem we have? Yes, places are no longer serving lunch at 2:30pm and won't serve food again until 6pm! Great. And of course we couldn't quickly find the part of town where there are speedy takeout bites. It wasn't until about 3:30pm that we were able to find the "Waffle House" for some great savory waffles. (ham and cheese)
We didn't realize it but the town is known for its love of comic strips. So there are comic strip murals all around town. Josh thought it was really cool. We saw some sights (there aren't a ton in this city) and ended up at a rooftop festival event that our B&B owner told us about. Every Sat during the summer, they open up the rooftop floor of one of the parking lots and lay out a lot of fake grass, some lawn chairs and serve some snacks and drinks (yes, alcoholic drinks too). It had a great view of the city and we had some much needed drinks while we relaxed in the sun for a bit. Of course, we are somewhat jetlagged so Josh is soon passed out and I'm in the middle of the best nap of my life when Karen rudely wakes us both. Sheesh.
We finished off the evening with a very good dinner at a restaurant near the B&B. I had meat loaf (a known specialty of here) and it was outstanding. Karen got cheese croquettes and Josh had Salsbury steak. And again some good drinks. (sense a theme with today's events?) Suffice it to say, there was no searching for the gym or pool for extra exercise today.
So in the first day in Europe, Josh got to experience all of the pitfalls that we joke about with Europe travels-- something screwed up with the trains, luggage safety issues at train stations, and the endless search for food at the wrong time of day. Now that we got those out of the way, we can get down to business!
Surprisingly, we were able to stay up tonight! It helps that the sun doesn't set until almost 10pm. (it's 9pm now)
Tomorrow, we do a day trip to Bruges, one of our favorite cities. We'll likely have more of the same (yawn) -- Belgian chocolate, Belgian Waffles and Belgian French Fries. Maybe we'll be adventurous and try out a bike ride in the countryside.
I uploaded more photos than normal below.. in case people wanted to see more pics. If not I can post fewer.. And this blog doesn't let me easily reorder them.. so today they are in random chronological order.
I'm not sure why I expected anything less, but of course there was an issue with the train when we got there. Apparently, that faster train to Brussels almost always sells out at least a day ahead of time. Not to mention Saturday mornings. And I didn't think to reserve it ahead of time. So we could either wait 6 hours to catch the next faster/nicer train (arriving at 6pm) or we could take the slower (insert your favorite adjective here that rhymes with pity) route and get there at 1:30pm. Notice I didn't use the word "train" there. That's because the journey was not just by train. We were told that we needed to take a 1 hour train to a previously unheard-of town named Breda (Is that Brenda without the N?) and because it was our lucky weekend, they were doing construction on the tracks. So that meant we had to get off the train and catch a bus to the next station. Then continue for 20 minutes to Antwerp on another train. Then connect to yet another 50 minute train into Brussels. For a grand total of 3.5 hours of train+bus rides -- all with our large bags. Hey, it wouldn't be Europe without a train adventure to start things off. Not only that, but because Josh was tired, he didn't realize he needed to take one of the bags off one of the trains and left it on the previous train! Which we didn't realize until about 5 minutes later -- but thankfully we ran back to the earlier train and it was still there where we left it! Oh boy. Minor panic attack there. But in the end, we made it to Brussels and walked the final 10-15 minutes to our B&B. The weather was party cloudy when we arrived (and in the upper 60s) but it cleared up later into the lower 70s later.
The B&B is fantastic. It's fairly cheap (120 Euros/night) and the room is very large as well as the bathroom. It has a second bed for Josh and is a 3 minute walk to the main central square of town in Brussels. The owner is nice and told us what to go do and where to eat. (obviously the main concern of ours)
We head out to finally get lunch (since we didn't get any chance to eat during our 3.5 hour train/bus adventure during the 10am-1:30pm timeframe) at 2:30pm. So for those of you who have traveled to Europe, what is the next problem we have? Yes, places are no longer serving lunch at 2:30pm and won't serve food again until 6pm! Great. And of course we couldn't quickly find the part of town where there are speedy takeout bites. It wasn't until about 3:30pm that we were able to find the "Waffle House" for some great savory waffles. (ham and cheese)
We didn't realize it but the town is known for its love of comic strips. So there are comic strip murals all around town. Josh thought it was really cool. We saw some sights (there aren't a ton in this city) and ended up at a rooftop festival event that our B&B owner told us about. Every Sat during the summer, they open up the rooftop floor of one of the parking lots and lay out a lot of fake grass, some lawn chairs and serve some snacks and drinks (yes, alcoholic drinks too). It had a great view of the city and we had some much needed drinks while we relaxed in the sun for a bit. Of course, we are somewhat jetlagged so Josh is soon passed out and I'm in the middle of the best nap of my life when Karen rudely wakes us both. Sheesh.
We finished off the evening with a very good dinner at a restaurant near the B&B. I had meat loaf (a known specialty of here) and it was outstanding. Karen got cheese croquettes and Josh had Salsbury steak. And again some good drinks. (sense a theme with today's events?) Suffice it to say, there was no searching for the gym or pool for extra exercise today.
So in the first day in Europe, Josh got to experience all of the pitfalls that we joke about with Europe travels-- something screwed up with the trains, luggage safety issues at train stations, and the endless search for food at the wrong time of day. Now that we got those out of the way, we can get down to business!
Surprisingly, we were able to stay up tonight! It helps that the sun doesn't set until almost 10pm. (it's 9pm now)
Tomorrow, we do a day trip to Bruges, one of our favorite cities. We'll likely have more of the same (yawn) -- Belgian chocolate, Belgian Waffles and Belgian French Fries. Maybe we'll be adventurous and try out a bike ride in the countryside.
I uploaded more photos than normal below.. in case people wanted to see more pics. If not I can post fewer.. And this blog doesn't let me easily reorder them.. so today they are in random chronological order.
Our plane |
One of many comic strip murals around town |
At central square in Brussels |
At central square in Brussels |
At rooftop party |
Aperol drink of choice at rooftop event |
Josh passed out at event (yes he didn't notice my handy stonework) |
View from rooftop |
Josh in front of comic store with a bunch of figurines he liked |
Another comic mural |
Sunset from the plane |
Train #1 (before) |
Train #1 (later..) |
Bus part.. (sensing a theme?) |
Our large room at the B&B (X2Brussels) |
Another comic mural |
Finally found lunch -- Waffles with ham/cheese inside. Josh barely hanging in there |
Drinks at rooftop (mojito for me) |
Rooftop |
Josh back alive at dinner |
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Adult beverage at dinner (yum!) |
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